Wednesday, May 20, 2009

The other cosmos







                        Having stayed in a small township in Gujarat for 13 long years, (which initially I loathed) had to visit villages in and around as part of work. I was reluctant to go at first because many places in Gujarat, though a developed state in India, reeked of stench and mosquitoes owing to the open drainage system for reasons unknown as compared to the cultural city of Pune which I had to leave years back. Well I still remember the first abode I visited in one of the hamlets. The verandah was clean and spotless no fancy tile work though but plain soil, painted with cow dung that had dried and gave a greenish look. We were given chairs to sit upon. During the hour that we spent, didn't experience a single mosquito bite ! Though the house was dark inside, I found things were neatly arranged, the kitchen was clean too. There was no bathroom ! There it was at the backyard far away from the house and I remembered my Great granny's house in Mysore where one had to literally walk few minutes to go to the 'loo'. Around the houses were trees in plenty and fresh air fanned the whole surrounding. Oh ! it was heavenly and I started falling in love with the 'gams' as the villages are called there. Visiting villages became a pleasure trip thereafter, with discovering freshly transplanted rice, 'toor', 'vaal', ( pulses) and freshly grown 'gawar' (cluster beans), 'bhindi' (okra) etc and not to mention the delicious variety of mangoes- The Alphonso and Kesar.
                              It was after a long time after shifting to a city, I got the chance to visit the villages once again. Life appeared simple and 'Nawabi' (Royal) there, with the 'Mehmaannawazi' (hospitality) of our city dweller but landowner friends. Food is one of the real luxuries, being cooked on the 'chulha' with home grown cereals, pulses and vegetables. No glass wares but native style of cooking and served hot. Rice bread 'The Rotlas' prepared with rice flour dough which women dish out with one hand and spread on hot 'tawas' (Pans) using the palms and then dish them out with the spatula onto the flat bamboo woven basket, serving them with pickle, salad, and spicy egg plant or good old potato gravy dish interspersed with whole lentils. The day we reached early morning, began with a cup of hot tea and 'farsan' (snacks). Later as we chatted sitting on the mats, fresh 'chikoos' (Sapota or sapodilla) grown in the backyard arrived. Gujarat grown chikoos are the best in India and its sweetness can't be matched elsewhere. After gulping down a couple of the fleshy fruit, it was time for  mid morning 'Mohanthaal' (a sweet dish compulsory in Gujarati weddings). And thus the day went on with eating, napping going around the house and fields. After attending two weddings in a typical 'hot summer at its peak day', it was time to sleep and we were informed, we were to sleep on the terrace ! Wow ! as comfy the beds spread on the terrace looked, even more spectacular was the star show on the sky above. It was after nearly two decades that I got to see the huge number of heavenly darlings in the night and the eyes hit idyllic sopor.
                      A morning walk of about three kilometers into the vineyard of local vegetable called 'tindora' and brinjals plus many other wild species with their berries, some used in pickles was exhilarating. The mango trees were bare, very less fruit a man said. The hut amidst the vegetable farm and mango trees looked picturesque, otherwise a norm, a necessity in the village, where one stayed to drive away the nocturnals which would harm the crop. Either one of the family members would stay or someone would be hired for the purpose. The walk back home was a learning experience as well, with the sheep minus their furs and goats, all bundled up in a pen, the rooster running helter skelter and cuckoos singing at top of their voices. 
                          A lazy affair the village visit...didn't have to be formal, was jolly good self, meandering here and there except for few curious looks from the dwellers. Clicking a slow life was fun, there was work but unlike the helter skelter affair of the city, and urgency for what? The morning breakfast, the afternoon meal and then dinner. All the shredding, chopping of vegetables in bulk by 3 to 4 ladies in the house was sheer fun to watch. In fact few women even showed the vegetables they were chopping in the right angles so that I could click, after the initial look of amusement on their faces. How blissful it is to breathe in the idyllic den !

3 comments:

  1. I too loved interior Gujarat in my travels and preferred it to the cities...the only cities there which i liked were Baroda and Rajkot the other bigger cities like Surat, Bharuch, Ahmedabad were not to my taste actually...

    Food in Saurashtra - gams is super and closer to the border the dhaani's are marvelous. They created one in Ahmedabad called Vishala wonder whether its still around..it was okay...but cant beat the real thing..an actual gam

    ReplyDelete
  2. Great ! now what's the dhaani? Kathiawadi food is delectable too.

    ReplyDelete
  3. oh ! the chokhi dhaani ! we have one here on the Nagar road.

    ReplyDelete